I had definitely imagined this stage to be different. Almost all downhill, hardly any metres in altitude - I should have made good progress, I thought to myself as I traced the planned route with my finger on the map. But nature is different. No wonder this section is missing from the official website 🤣 But more on that later.
Gerolding
Gerolding church
I start quite comfortably at the church in Gerolding. I fill up my water bottles and eat my bars since I need to recharge my batteries after the previous hike. For now, I still have no idea of the exertions to come. Oh, dear!
Gerolding lies on a large woodland-free spot on the southern edge of the Dunkelsteinerwald forest. From the church, which sits on a hilltop and whose foundation walls originate from an ancient fortification, you have a magnificent view of the Alpine foothills. It must be marvellous up in the church tower. The church is fenced in by the cemetery, giving it a medieval charm.
Nowadays, cemeteries are often located somewhat away from the church and the town centre, but in the past it was customary to bury the dead as close to the church as possible. After all, in Christianity, the church is metaphorically the house of God.
View from Halterberg
I leave Gerolding, but will soon return. The path makes a small loop to climb a small elevation, the Halterberg. It’s worth it. The view, especially towards the Danube, is fantastic. With eagle eyes, I can also recognize the following stations of my trip: Schönbühel Castle and Melk Abbey.
Back in Gerolding, I follow the road to the Harrerhof farm. From here I descend into the gorge of the Siecherbach, which rises near Gerolding below the church.
Siecherbach
The dense tree cover obscures the gorge. On the first kilometre along the stream on a forest road with little, past traffic I can run quite smoothly. The descent is pleasant, only the abundant vegetation of ferns and nettles bothers me a little.
My skin is exposed between my socks and shorts. My mistake. After my superficial study of the map, I had expected a nice forest path, as is the case in most of the Dunkelsteinerwald. And it’s spring. Everything is sprouting happily. Fortunately, I don’t come across any thorny wild raspberry bushes. But the nettles are prickling.
I recognize the Dunkelsteinerwald Course sign on two trees. So I’m on the right track. The next section will be an adventure.
The track narrows until only a thin line remains. The first stream crossing awaits me. Three stones signal the crossing: you have to cross here! I feel like I’m in a video game. All that’s missing is zombies to confront me, just like in The Last of Us 🧟 The tubular level design doesn’t allow you to break out. Every crossing is surprisingly easy to find.
And again three stones. One … Two … Three 💦 and the stream is crossed with some bunny-hops.
Once again I descend to the stream bed. The water gushes with vigour. It’s fun, but the crossings also take a lot of time. How many times have I crossed the stream? I’ve lost count.
I see a building. Finally. Should I use the stones here too or the two planks? They don’t look quite safe. But the stones are so far apart. Then onto the planks, why else are they here?
Schönbühel Palace
You can visit the local castle in Schönbühel. Unfortunately only from the outside, as it is privately owned. However, it is not quite on the route. You first have to go into the village and then out again to continue the stage.
Another route, such as the 9th stage of the World Heritage Trail, takes you past the castle. If you want less adventure, you should choose this route. It leads to Berging and along a forest road up to Gerolding.
A fortification owned by the Bishopric of Passau from the 9th century forms the foundation walls of the castle. Over the centuries, numerous ministerial families lived in the castle until it came into the possession of the von Starhemberg family.
Despite converting to Protestantism, the family was able to retain the property. Other family estates were confiscated and handed over to monasteries.
However, today’s appearance is of more recent origin. The castle was sold in 1819 and the new owner had it demolished for a new building.
As it’s already late, I save myself the trip to the castle. The sun is due to set in around two hours and I still have to get to Melk. I immediately turn left and hike up to Hub on a beaten track.
Hub
In front of me, a peculiar hiker plods along leisurely. Oh, it’s a cat 😲 Like me, it’s following the narrow path. Maybe it’s on a pilgrimage. After all, the hiking trail is part of the Way of St James.
It’s not entirely comfortable with me. At the next fork the cat leaves the track. I try to gain its trust, maybe I could pet it. It sits in an observant position. But with every careful step I take forwards, it takes two steps back. This is not working.
In Hub I once again enjoy the view over the Danube and the red evening sun. I hurry down to the mouth of the Pielach. A cute golden retriever wants to sniff me. He thinks he knows me and is delighted. His master adds embarrassed, “For Bobby, everyone is a friend.” At least Bobby appreciates petting.
Melk Danube wetlands
The last stretch to Melk is flat on the cycle path. Fortunately, hardly anyone cycles this late in the evening. The path is not wide. I feel a bit like an obstacle for the faster cyclists. My strength is also slowly dwindling.
Shortly before Melk, I take a small diversion. I take a dip in the nearby Danube wetlands before standing in front of the Melk Summer Festival stage. The programme for 2025 is Praterstern - Scenes from our tragicomic life. The plays are always fantastic.
Crossing the pedestrian bridge, from which I enjoy a wonderful view of Melk Abbey, I finally reach the old town centre of Melk.