Hiking again at last. I’ve really missed it after all the kilometres of training for the marathon on flat roads. My hiking tour today takes me to Aggsbach Dorf. The World Heritage Trail also passes through here, but this time I’m starting my first stage on the Dunkelsteinerwald Course.
Aggsbach Dorf
Kartause Aggsbach
The monastery is hidden deep in the valley. Although I’ve been to Aggsbach Dorf several times before, this is the first time I’ve seen it. Although it still borders the village, it lays secluded on the Wolfsteinbach, which opens up a small, narrow side valley. To reach the Charterhouse, you also have to cross the stream.
The remote location in the Dunkelsteinerwald is no coincidence. Rather, the Carthusians, in Latin Ordo Cartusiensis, were looking for such locations for their monasteries. In Gaming, in the Eisenwurzen region, there is another of their monasteries.
The origins of the order date back to the 11th century. St Bruno of Cologne withdrew with his companions to the sparsely populated mountain range Chartreuse, hence the name, around Grenoble. They lived there as hermits, meeting only for mass. Through a strictly mystic life, i.e. introspection, meditation and regular prayer, they tried to explore their own spirituality in order to experience God.
However, the ascetic life of the Carthusians ultimately led to the dissolution of the order in Aggsbach. In 1782, Emperor Joseph II issued a decree dissolving all monasteries that did not add any social value apart from praying. This marked the end of around 400 years of spiritual life in Aggsbach. After all, the monastery was founded in 1380 by Heidenreich von Maissau.
After its dissolution, the monastery fell into disrepair. Only in recent decades has the Gothic ensemble been lovingly restored by private hands. A museum about the Carthusians and monastic life has also been set up.
Kalvarienberg
After the monastery, the path climbs steeply. I follow the Way of the Cross, which was built by the monks on the opposite hillside. Small places of worship for the 14 Stations of the Cross line the path. It is arduous and strenuous. How often did the monks walk it, deep in prayer?
At the end, the crucifixion scene awaits me in the middle of the magnificent deciduous forest. There is also a beautiful view of Aggstein, only the monastery remains hidden by the leaves of the trees. The walkup was worth it.
I take a short break, drink some water and then walk down to the Mitterbach. The stream and its valley become my faithful companion. I follow it until I reach the plateau of the Dunkelsteinerwald forest. The trail climbs gently uphill on a forest road.
Dunkelsteinerwald Plateau
Gurhof Palace
Once I reach the top, a wide panorama of freshly mown meadows opens up before me. There are hardly any fields in the Dunkelsteinerwald. Instead, the landscape with its undulating hills is reminiscent of the Alpine foothills. Forest and meadows, interspersed with small villages and individual farmsteads.
There appears to be a farmstead in front of me. But on closer inspection, it turns out to be Gurhof Palace. In the late 15th century, the captain of Göttweig built a farmstead for his feudal lords. After several changes of ownership, the farm ended up with Ludwig von Starhemberg, Lord of Schönbühel. However, as he did not renounce the Protestant faith, the emperor confiscated his property and handed it over to Göttweig Abbey.
The abbots then had the farmstead remodelled into a Baroque palace. Johann Lucas Hildebrandt, who also oversaw the remodelling of Göttweig Abbey and had previously planned numerous city palaces in Vienna, was hired as the master builder. The monastery owned the palace until 1970, after which it was sold into private ownership. Today it is a popular wedding location.
Ruin Wolfstein
I lose the way for the first time at Grubhof. The signpost has been swallowed up by a hedge. To my surprise, I have to cross a meadow and not follow the tarmac road. Oh dear, danger of ticks in the tall grass. But I’m soon back in the shady forest. I descend to Wolfstein.
Unfortunately, I didn’t write down in my notes that there is a ruin here. So I don’t give it the time of day and continue my hike. The castle is one of the oldest fortifications in the Dunkelsteinerwald. It also came into the possession of the aforementioned Ludwig von Starhemberg and then passed onto Göttweig Abbey. The abbey sold the ruins in 1993.
Gerolding
The last long climb before Gerolding along the Raintalbach stream. My water supplies are coming to an end. But it’s not far now.
Before I reach the top, I pass an inconspicuous hut. It is a restored lime kiln. Around 1900, lime was mined and burned in numerous quarries in the Dunkelsteinerwald.
At the end of the hike, I have a wide view of the foothills of the Alps from the Hohes Kreuz. From here, it really isn’t far to Gerolding. Just turn right along the field path, through the forest, and you’re already in front of the Hirschenwirt inn, where delicious rose hip specialities are on offer. Now I just have to walk up to Gerolding church and the hike is done.
