It’s been a few years since I last visited the Ötschergräben. Back then, I hiked from Lackenhof over the Riffelsattel through the Ötschergräben to Wienerbruck. The reason for today’s hike is a friend. Unfortunately, she has not yet experienced this natural jewel. Of course, I couldn’t say no, as I’m practically a local guide 😄
However, I have changed the route a little this time. After all, I also want to explore new paths. More about the route will follow shortly.
Wienerbruck
The starting point of our hike is the nature park centre in Wienerbruck. The village can be easily reached via the Mariazell railway. You can buy your entrance ticket for the nature park on the train or later at the ticket office of the nature park centre.
The Wienerbruck reservoir quietly reflects the morning sun’s rays. But that soon changes. The water of the Lassingbach stream thunders down the gorge. It has rained a lot over the last few days. The reservoir is full, and the excess water is spilling over. I have never seen the stream so raging.
The Kienfall, normally a small waterfall, also has plenty of water falling into the Lassingbach this time. The background noise drowns out our conversations.
Ötschergräben
Wienerbruck Power Station
As soon as we arrive at the Wienerbruck power station, the roaring subsides. The Erlauf flows more gently. We pay a brief visit to the exhibition in the power station. Old turbines paint a picture of historical electricity production. The power station is certainly quaint. It was built back in 1910 to ensure the operation of the Mariazell railway.
The popular pilgrim railway to Mariazell was one of the first railway lines in Austria to be electrified. The electric locomotives that were once purchased were in regular service until 2013. Since then, they have just been used for special trips. At weekends and on public holidays, they run on the line as the Ötscherbär.
Lower Ötschergraben
After the power station, we cross a bridge and return to the hiking trail. The Erlauf flows into the Ötscherbach inconspicuously as a small stream. Most of its water is dammed at the Erlaufklause and diverted for electricity production.
The sun is giving us a hard time. It’s hot. Fortunately, the path leads partly under shady trees. Otherwise, you are always a few metres above the Ötscherbach stream. Numerous hikers use its fresh mountain water to cool off. At suitable points, they descend to the gravel banks and jump into its pools. However, the stream would be too cold for me.
At the Ötscherhias, we briefly consider whether we should take a short break. A small hiking group approaches us from the bridge leading to the Ötscherhias. They have probably already had the same idea. However, we decide against taking a break and carry on hiking.
Upper Ötschergraben
The hiking circuit to the hut is more popular due to its shortness. After that, the Ötschergräben becomes lonelier. There are hardly any hikers to cross paths with. But the following section is stunning in terms of scenery.
A narrow ribbon of footbridges winds its way along the Ötscherbach stream. To the left and right, the grass-covered rocky slopes drop steeply down to the stream. Trees can barely hold on here. In the distance, the Mirabach falls spectacularly down a cliff with a loud roar. We finally take a short break at Mirafall and let the spray from the waterfall cool us down.
Another impressive waterfall awaits us, but there is still a little way to go. At Moisengraben, a turn-off leads up to the Ötscher over the Rauer Kamm. Perhaps I will tackle this tour another time.
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/>We come to a bridge. Here we take a short detour to the Schleierfall. This waterfall cascades just a few minutes from our current location. It is definitely worth a visit, even if it is not as spectacular as the Mirafall. A fine jet of water envelops the rock like a transparent veil, hence the name. A group of young people cool off by the pool above the falls. They are clearly having fun.
Vorderötscher
Refuge Vorderötscher
We return to the bridge and continue our hike to Refuge Vorderötscher. The only ascent on this hike leads along the Greimelbach stream between the Großer and Kleiner Eichhorn. Fortunately, it is not particularly difficult, just a little damp and muddy.
We hear cowbells at the refuge, but we don’t get to see their carriers. They are probably hiding somewhere behind the trees on the mountain pastures nearby.
A short break is definitely in order: a cool drink to quench our thirst. It’s almost lunchtime, we’ve timed it well, and other hikers are gradually arriving for lunch.
Erlaufklause
The return is via the Ötscher road, a wide forest road through less spectacular woodland. A few clearings provide a view of the impressive Ötscher. Shortly before the Erlaufklause, we pass the Hagengut forester’s lodge.
The Erlauf reservoir completely fills the following valley. The trees are reflected in the still water. Only when we cross the dam do we realise how deep the lake really is. The water falls down through a wide pipe, practically an oversized drain. It’s not far to the Erlaufklause stop, where we wait for the train to return.
PS Bonus picture:
