Summary
The hike and subsequent camping were organised by Robens
and Bergzeit
. Tents, sleeping bags, and mats from Robens could be tested extensively. I won a place at this event through the Bergzeit Frischluftkick. What a stroke of luck 😄
We hike from the Spielberghaus to the nearby Kleberkopf, where we enjoy a magnificent view of the Pillerseetal, and the Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge. We then round off the day with a cosy barbecue at the Spielberghaus before finally retiring to our cozy tents for the night.
Difficulty
The hike follows well-marked mountain trails with good visibility. A typical, gentle grassy mountain. The return is via a gravel road, hence the light downgrade to T2-.
Arrival
There are a few parking spots directly at the Spielberghaus or at the valley station of the Kohlmaisbahn in Saalbach, from where you can hike to the Spielberghaus either via the Spielbergweg (gravel road) or the Pascherweg (hiking trail).
Food
At the starting point, the Spielberghaus
, food and drinks are available year-round. In summer, it is closed on Monday. A little to the north, around 1 km from the Spielberghaus, is the Burgeralm. Here, too, one can treat oneself to warm food and cold drinks. Closing days are Monday and Tuesday.
Saalbach
Arrival
Dark clouds shroud the mountain peaks as I arrive in Saalbach in the late afternoon. Numerous mountain bikers dash fearlessly down the slopes. The first drops of rain don’t deter them from their adrenaline rush.
But as I look over to the Spielberghorn, our planned hiking destination for tomorrow, I doubt whether we will be able to tackle the summit. The gentle grassy mountains in this region are characterised by soft mineral layers. The rain easily softens them and makes the ground slippery. So it’s a tricky situation when the path becomes steeper.
Meeting Point: Kohlmaisbahn
The agreed meeting point for the Robens Trek is at 9am the next day at the Kohlmaisbahn valley station in Saalbach. Who will I find here? How big is our group? I don’t have much more information, apart the black-and-white photos of the two organisers, Stefan and Christian. But I don’t see their faces on arrival.
However, I immediately notice a few other likely participants. They stand out as hikers among all the mountain bikers waiting impatiently for the lift to open. Among them is Corrine, the organiser from Bergzeit, the second sponsor of the trip. I had actually won this trip through Bergzeit. She is delighted to hand me a small goodie bag from Bergzeit. Thank you! But there is still no sign of Stefan and Christian.
Fortunately, the dilemma is soon resolved. Stefan and Christian had been waiting for the participants at the car park and had already accompanied a few of them to the Spielberghaus, our base for the weekend. There, we finally meet the rest of the group, surprisingly international, in total 14 participants. Many come from far away: Denmark, Norway, Great Britain, Hungary, and middle Germany. The event can begin 😄
Hike
Spielberghaus
Over a hearty snack - the snack platter, topped with sliced meat and cheese, is as wide as the table - Stefan and Christian explain the schedule of the trek: after the snack, we’ll hike, then set up the tents on our return and round off the day with a cosy barbecue in the evening. Naturally, we’ll spend the night in Robens tents.
They also introduce our hiking guide, Peter. With a serious expression, he announces a small change to the tour: instead of the Spielberghorn, he will lead us up the Kleberkopf. He himself had slipped on the trail to the Spielberghorn the day before. A red, nasty wound on his right temple still bears witness to this. The rain had made the ground soft, so he suggests the easier hike to the Kleberkopf.
I can’t hide a little disappointment. The rugged summit looked so tempting yesterday. But it’s true. The ground is soft from the rain. The mixture of grass, humus, clay and slate is as slippery as soap if you are not careful.
Kleberkopf
We set off at a leisurely pace as drizzle begins to fall. The trail first leads up to the Bixenbacher Alm, where the owners are already busily preparing for winter. Logs wait patiently on a trailer to be stored next to the hut. Finally, the sun breaks through and the clouds partially disperse.
The path then crosses the mountain pasture and enters a spruce forest. An idyllic forest pond is hidden here. One of us can’t resist the refreshment and, without hesitation, spontaneously jumps into the cool water in his birthday suit.
The forest soon thins out and we hike across the wide alpine pastures of the mountain. Peter, our hiking guide, turns out to be not only a mountain expert, but also a herb witch. He can name every little mountain plant along the way - alpine rose, thyme - and even has stories to tell, such as the one about collecting herbs during the Second World War to alleviate the shortage of medicines.
Where there is a mountain pasture, cows are never far away. We can hear their bells ringing from afar. They lie in the meadow, contentedly chewing their cud. Their breed is typical of the region, an old domestic variety: Pinzgauers, with their chestnut-brown patches. Although they were once popular as draught animals, they are rarely found today. They feel at home in the terrain of their homeland, on the lush alpine pastures of Pinzgau.
The disused magnesite mine at Bürglkopf is our constant companion. Its high steps of red-grey rock stand out from the otherwise green meadows and forests. The Eastern Alps are particularly rich in magnesite. The mineral is highly heat-resistant, which is why it is primarily used as cladding in ovens.
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/>We made it. Finally at the top! We are rewarded with a fantastic view of the Pillerseetal with the villages of Hochfilzen and Fieberbrunn. The Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge are also visible. Unfortunately, thick clouds obstruct the mountain peaks, which is why we are denied the full splendour of this mountain range.
We take a short break, enjoy the view, and two of us toast our summit victory with a schnapps. After the obligatory group photo, we head back downhill, this time on a wide gravel road. The descent is much quicker.
Speaking of schnapps: we stumble across another little curiosity. At an abandoned alpine hut, we find a birdhouse. Someone jokes about whether there might be schnapps hidden inside. The bird house is opened. And sure enough, there is a bottle of raspberry schnapps with two glasses inside 😂
Camping
After returning to the Spielberghaus, we refresh ourselves with some drinks before setting off to pitch our tents. Everyone gets one from Robens’ extensive range, from 1-person tents to 3-person tents. Stefan gives us a brief introduction to the history of Robens and tips on choosing the right pitch for our tents. Then we set off and spread out across the mountain pasture.
Finding a good spot is not easy. First, it has to be flat. You don’t want to roll around in your sleep. Secondly, it shouldn’t be damp. We rarely find both together on this mountain pasture. The flat areas, in particular, are soggy from the rain. In the end, we form three small tent villages.
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/>I set it up surprisingly quickly, even though I have hardly any experience. The well-thought-out design of the tent certainly helps. There is also enough space for me, a 2-person tent all to myself. A dream ☺️
We then round off the evening with a delicious barbecue at the Spielberghaus: ribs, grilled steaks, roasted peppers, potato wedges, and even grilled shrimps - presumably for the Australian in our group; “shrimp on the barbie” - await us.
As the sun sets, we gradually return to our tents and sleeping bags. My first night in a tent on the mountain - how exciting!
