Even on a short relaxing holiday in the thermal and former volcanic region of Styria, a hike in the surrounding area is a must. It’s not too strenuous, as the land is flat along the River Mura.
Bad Radkersburg
The main square of Bad Radkersburg presents itself brilliantly. The sun and the architecture of the colourful houses give the town a southern flair. I feel like I’m in Italy, but that’s no coincidence.
There are plenty of Italian influences, even apart from the gelato served in the café. In the 16th century, the sovereign of Styria commissioned the Italian architect Domenico dell’Allio to build a new town wall to protect the town of Bad Radkersburg from the Turkish armies.
The invention of gunpowder and its later use in cannons radically changed fortress construction. Earlier fortification walls, which were primarily high and slender, could be easily destroyed by cannon fire. They, therefore, no longer offered any protection from attackers. A breach was possible after only a short bombardment. In response, the bastion was developed in Italy – a thick, fortified rampart, a curtain wall, in the shape of a pentagon with protruding turrets, the bastions. This setup provided protection from bombardment and allowed defenders to fire back.
And it was precisely such a fortification that was built for Bad Radkersburg. Apart from the missing town gates, it is still excellently preserved. A wide moat stretches out in front, which was once filled with water from the River Mura and served as an open field of fire. Since it has been drained, it appears as a flowering meadow in spring.
Besides the fortifications and the main square, there is more to admire in the old town of Bad Radkersburg. The Gothic churches are joined by numerous Renaissance town houses and palaces. A well-preserved old town overall.
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/>Slowly but surely, I make my way to the River Mura and leave the old town centre. The Mura is also one of the reasons why Bad Radkersburg gained importance in the Middle Ages: it is wide, flows quickly, and carries plenty of water. There are therefore not many crossings over the river. One of these, a wooden bridge, was located near Bad Radkersburg. The fact that the town was on the way of an important trade route can also be recognised by the coat of arms, which depicts a simple wheel.
Gornja Radgona
With the end of the First World War, however, the city was confronted with drastic changes. It once connected the two parts of Styria, but from then on it was relegated to the periphery as a border town - the last train stop. The areas south of the Mura were awarded to the Kingdom of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs, which is why the suburb and Oberradkersburg Castle were separated from the town of Radkersburg.
It was only when Slovenia joined the Schengen area that the barriers were finally dismantled. Without strict border controls, I cross the bridge as if I were only changing the neighbourhood and not the country. My next destination is the castle, which watches over the Mura and Bad Radkersburg from a 50-metre-high hill. The castle was first mentioned in the 12th century, shortly before the town of Bad Radkersburg was founded.
A steep staircase leads up to the castle. Unfortunately, I can’t visit the building itself. It is privately owned and primarily opens for events. There is also a freely accessible viewing platform along the ascent. But to my disappointment, I can hardly see Bad Radkersburg from above. Dense vegetation obstructs the view of the town.
From the castle, I walk straight back down to Gornja Radgona and the Mura. The only real ascent of my tour is over. Now it’s flat in the Mura floodplains.
Along the Mura
The path leads almost continuously along the Mura on a forest road, sometimes it gets a little narrower. There are no real difficulties. I enjoy the soft sandy ground. Although the Mura is a few metres below, the ground here is sandy. This could perhaps be a little problematic in heavy rain.
The floodplain is now lush and green in spring. The dense foliage muffles the noise of the nearby roads and villages. Wonderfully quiet. Only the cheerful chirping of the birds breaks the silence. A retreat not only for people, but also for the wildlife of the Mura. Beavers, otters, numerous amphibians and birds have found a home here.
Radenci
I follow the Mura for several kilometres until I reach Radenci, where the next bridge over the Mura is located. In the 19th century, the village developed into a small spa town after the doctor Karol F. Henn discovered a particularly naturally carbonated mineral water spring. A spa centre was founded and the water bottled—long before Bad Radkersburg, where a hot spring was only discovered in the 1970s.
Unfortunately, the splendour of the historic spa complex can only be admired in old photos. Most of the buildings have fallen into disrepair and are more reminiscent of lost places than a spa complex. At least the baths are still open. In the 1980s, a hotel complex was built with an adjoining thermal spa, which is partly fed by the aforementioned spring.
When I arrive, construction workers are working on a few of the derelict buildings in the spa gardens. Let’s see what the future holds. Perhaps one day they will shine in their former splendour and be put back to use instead of slowly falling into disrepair.
Lower Murtal Biosphere Reserve
I leave Radenci and cross the Mura again. This time, however, I don’t change the country. Not yet. The border is a few hundred metres upstream. First a dirt track with a small bridge over a stream, then a beaten track leads me to the border crossing. A secret smugglers’ route?
Two signs mark the border. Slovenia here - Austria there. Not very spectacular. It’s not so easy to guess exactly where the border runs though. The vegetation of the floodplain is too rich, too dense.
A few metres further on, the border post is placed. A small wooden hut, densely overgrown with plants. Nature knows no boundaries. It seems nobody has been keeping watch here for some time. Well, maybe the foliage is camouflage.
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/>Now I’m walking along the Mura again. The floodplain is part of the Lower Murtal Biosphere Reserve. Together with their Slovenian, Hungarian, Croatian and Serbian counterparts on the Mura, Drava and Danube, they form the largest river conservation area in Europe. The UNESCO Mura-Drava-Danube Biosphere Reserve covers almost one million hectares of protected area for the flora and fauna of these rivers.
The birds are also chirping happily on the Austrian side. A few local dog owners cross my path. They also like to use the tranquillity of the floodplain for their walks. Gradually, I approach Bad Radkersburg again. Certainly not the most exciting route without fantastic views, but still a nice, quiet morning in the countryside with a bit of sightseeing.
After this hike, I definitely deserve a hot sauna session and a relaxing massage. Of course, I’ll also be using the pools for a few laps over the next few days.